A Perfect Day in the Oltrano

When many visit the beautiful city of Firenze, they usually explore the centro area which includes the Duomo, museums, souvenir shops, and high-end luxury stores but in my opinion once you cross the Arno river, you experience an entirely different vibe. Named the trendiest neighborhood where locals have been living for years: The Oltrano, made up of Santo Spirito, Santo Frediano, & San Niccolò. If you want to ditch the crowds and camera-clicking tourists, this is the area to be.

MORNING:

Start your day at any nearby bar and power up with an espresso. My spot is Caffé Dei Serragli where locals pop in for their coffee and daily newspaper. Italians don’t entertain grande-sized lattes, you will mostly hear orders for no-nonsense espresso with a cornetto (croissant)- the quintessential start to the day. If you prefer to sit down and ease into the day, stop at Ditta Artigianale for a cool ambiance and savory breakfast menu options.

Every morning the Piazza Santa Spirito has vendors selling clothing, antiques, and fresh veggies and fruit.

AFTERNOON:

Shopping in the Oltrano entails a plethora of second-hand stores, artisanal boutiques, and Cartolerie shops on every cobblestone street. If you’re looking for vintage designer handbags and shoes, check out Celeste Vintage and I Magnini for authentic Italian jewelry and charms.

For inexpensive yet amazing Neopolitan style pizza, Gusta Pizza is great. They are only open from 12-3pm so be sure to get there right at noon otherwise all tables are full by 12:10.

Midday gelato is a must- my top picks are Sbrino for the speculoos and Gelato Santa Trinita for the ricotta è fichi.

For a truly relaxing afternoon wander the grounds of Boboli Gardens; once owned by the Medici family you can walk and admire the statues, perch on a bench with a book, or lay out a blanket on one of the many grassy knolls.

Grab a craft beer or glass of wine paired with a charcuterie board at Tuscan Taste or an Aperol spritz at the Loggia Roof Bar located on top of the Hotel Palazzo Guadagni.  

EVENING:

Plan on a pre-dinner walk to Piazzale Michelangelo for unforgettable panoramic views of the city at sunset.

Once you make the trek down you can enjoy dinner at Signorvino. Outdoor seating lines the Arno river with views of Ponte Vecchio and they have an impressive selection of vino and menu that does not disappoint.  For a more authentic fare, head to Trattoria la Casalinga, but be sure to make a reservation because this cozy family-run place is tiny and always packed.

Enjoy a nightcap at Caffè Notte Bistrot where locals congregate and the vino della casa is 2 euros.